Exfoliation isn't just scrubbing your skin; the removal of dead skin cells allows fresh new cells to be revealed improving the appearance of the skin. Exfoliation also increases blood circulation, brings more oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells, removes dead cells from the surface helping to keep pores from getting clogged with impurities which can lead to spots.

 

Bit of Science

We have 3 layers that make up our skin, the most outer layer, the epidermis is comprised of 5 sub layers.  You skin cells are formed on the bottom 5 layer (basal layer) and take approximately 28 days to reach the surface, meaning the skin you have a month from today with be brand new.

As we mature, our skin cell regeneration deteriorates, and the rate of the skin renewal slows down. Regular exfoliation accelerates the skin natural desquamation process, (skin’s renewal process) which is why it is also key in slowing down the effect of ageing on the skin.

 

Balance is Key

Striking a balance is key, over exfoliating will lead to the removal of the fresh live healthy skin cells which will cause sensitivity/irritation, breaking down the acid mantle (your skin’s barrier) which will compromise it and leave it open to bacteria and infection (microbes), environmental pollutants in the air etc which could result in redness, breakouts etc. However, under exfoliating will lead to a build-up of dead skin cells on the surface which could trap oil/bacteria resulting in breakouts and dull rough looking skin.

So, finding the balance is key, this will depend on the product you are using and your skin.

 

Different types of Exfoliation

There are two main types of exfoliation, which are mechanical and chemical.

Mechanical exfoliation uses a tool such as microdermabrasion or a product with an abrasive texture to remover the outer corneocytes (skin cells).  

This is the traditional style exfoliation that ‘buffs’ away dead skin cells on the surface.  There is nothing wrong with this style however there can be issues depending on the ingredients and use. If you are using them too often or are too aggressive with these products, they can cause micro tears in the skin which can lead to skin irritation, sensitivity and/or you skin becoming more dry or oily (breaking down the skin acid mantle).  What the beads are made of can also be an important factor, some can be too rough and can also be harmful for the environment. If they do not break down on your skin, ultimately, they will end up going down the plug hole and into the environment and could end up in the sea which could affect marine life. 

To avoid this, we use either smart sensing beads which mean that if you apply to much pressure they will simply burst on your skin or ingredients that are mindful.

 

 While Chemical exfoliation utilises either hydroxy acids or fruit enzymes.

Chemical dissolve the bonds that hold the skin cell together allowing them to shed.  Think of a brick wall held together by the mortar, the chemicals effective dissolve the mortar allowing the cells to shed.  There are different types AHAs and BHAs.

AHA’s are water soluble and are suitable for all skin types, they can feel tingly on the skin this is because they are working deeper into your skin and they can help hydrate and stimulate collagen production. Examples of AHA’s are glycolic, lactic, and malic have different molecular sizes meaning that they will penetrate to different layers of the epidermis and therefore have different benefits. Glycolic is one of the smallest, therefore, is used for anti-ageing as its able to penetrate to the stratum basal where the cells are formed, whilst lactic and malic are better for brightening.

BHA’s work slightly differently they are oil soluble meaning that they are able to penetrate the pore to exfoliate dead skin and sebum build up, which can help protect reduce inflammation and bacteria growth. The easiest way to think of this is like a tornado when they hit the skin the start to spin and purge out any impurities such as dead skin cells, oil, excess sebum etc.  Therefore, are best for breakouts, acne, or oilier skin types.  NB Do not use Salicylic acid, a form of BHA if you have an allergy to aspirin.

Fruit enzymes are another form of chemical exfoliation; however, they work by dissolving protein (keratin) causing a softening effect on the skin and sloughing off dead skin cells. Therefore, work more superficially and are therefore can be used even on sensitive skins or post peels.  Imagine pacman slowing eating away your dead skin cells.  Typical fruits that are used for the enzymatic properties are pineapple, papaya, passion fruit, coconut powder and pumpkin.

Please note all forms of exfoliation can make the skin more prone to UV damage so it’s imperative to wear your SPF daily!

If you are over the age of 25 you might want to consider using Retinol this is a form of Vitamin A it works in a completely different way, t penetrates the skin and help to “normalizes” the skin. The benefits are incredible; it boost the production of collagen and elastin, creates a plumping effect on the skin helping to sooth out fine line, wrinkles and enlarged pores and has an exfoliating effect on the skin’s surface that can improve texture and tone. It’s fabulous for diminishing signs of ageing, pigmentation/ discolouration, sun damage, uneven skintone and breakouts/ oil skin. However beware that misuse or using a retinol product that delivers it topically to the skin’s surface can result in redness, itching, irritation and peeling. All of the retinol products we use at BH BEAUTY ROOM have a patented delivery system called encapsulated retinol which means that the active ingredient, in this case the rentiol is encapsulated in an oil soluable sphere which enables it to be easily absorbed into the skin in a stabilized form to maximize its effectiveness whilst reducing the chances of skin appearing red and irritated. The benefits of this are that it has a longer lasting effect and we can use a lower percentage of retinol with the same or better efficacy. Remember start slow and always be progressive not aggressive.

 

How often should I exfoliate?

This will depend on the product/ingredients, what else you have done to your skin and your skin. As a rule of thumb, I exfoliate 2/3 times a week, this speeds up your skin natural renewal process, helps to keep acne under control, diminishes uneven skin tone and softens fine lines.  However, always follow the manufactures recommendations and instructions on the product you are using. If you are having peels and or other cosmetic facial procedures always follow aftercare guidelines, and if you are on any medications or undergoing any medical care be aware this can affect your skin therefore in the instance, I would seek advice from either your doctor or a skin specialist. 

 

Things to consider

If you are stressed your skin will be far more sensitive that normal so may feel more tender and sensitive to certain active ingredients, same goes for the time of the month. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding you may want to avoid AHA’s/ BHA’s and Retinols. All forms of exfoliation are going to make you skin more open to the elements and UV rays as you are removing the dead outer layer of the skin, so I prefer to exfoliate at night rather than morning.  ALWAYS use a broad-spectrum SPF in the daytime to protect your skin ideally one with antioxidants in to help keep you skin healthy and fight off any harmful free radicals.

Final formulations and not overdoing it.  Be aware of the final formulation and delivery system that the active ingredients are in as this will affect how effective they are and the results/ reaction you get on your skin.  Some ingredients are amazing but unless they can penetrate the skin may not be that effective.  Whilst some ingredients when applied may cause irritation to the skin, therefore, may need to be mixed with other ingredients to counteract this.   

Remember to be gentle with your skin, start slowly and always be progressive not aggressive.

When choosing a the correct exfoliating product consider your main concerns, your skin type and how much time you have to spend doing this as. If your time poor you may benefit from having a second cleanser, serum or night creme / overnight masque that you get these benefits from without needing to spend anymore time on your skin. Need some advice on the right type of exfoliation for you, I would be happy to help feel free to drop me a message.